Ashland: For those shopping for food along the way, Ashland is a great oasis. Although not necessarily cheap, the Ashland Food Co-op is a worthy stop. For those looking for a cheaper food selection, try the Shop 'N Kart. In addition to the classic bulk section, etc., their juice-bar and food area is well rated. Ashland also a number of vegan friendly restaurants including Greenleaf. I believe that Pangea and the Natural Cafe are closed these days.
Hyatt Lake: Gas Station Dining (GSD)
Crater Lake: Crater lake is pretty much GSD. The lodge has a formal dining room, but I don't believe that they have vegetarian options.
Shelter Cove Resort: GSD at best. Very limited amount of snack food and non-perishable items.
Willamette Pass Ski Resort: In past years the Willamette Pass Ski lodge has been open Thurs-Sun selling pizza. Unfortunately, although they have a vegetarian pizza, I don't believe that even the dough is vegan.
Big Lake Youth Camp: Just before you reach HWY 20/Sisters in Oregon there is a short turn off from the PCT to the Big Lake Youth Camp. I have not been, but my understanding is that it is a 7th Day Adventist run camp that serves only vegetarian food. I believe that when their camp is not fully booked up, they have allowed PCT hikers in the past to sleep there, shower there, and/or eat there.
Central Oregon ::: If you are thru-hiking the PCT feel free to contact me - if the timing works out, I would love to meet you trailside for some hot, home-cooked food. I now live in Eugene, so Willamette Pass/HWY58/Shelter Cove, McKenzie Pass or HWY20/Santiam Pass would be the closest for me.
Sisters: Sisters is a bit of a hitch-hike from the PCT, and, to me, not all that worth it unless you enjoy steak. In recent years, Sisters has acquired some fairly large super-markets, otherwise the restaurants are mostly burger and steak joints. There is one new, fairly veggie friendly spot, that if I recall correctly is called "Noodles and Rice." Its a small family run kind of operation selling asian inspired wok dishes.
Ollallie Lake: There is a small store at the lake that has somewhat typical GSD.
Timberline Lodge/Mt. Hood: Timberline Lodge is definitely a cool building and does have a full service restaurant. I am pretty sure that they have a vegetarian entre every night, but I am not sure how often it is vegan. Many hikers look forward to the Timberline brunch, however, unfortunately for a vegan it is a $12 melon bar. The ski lodge store is usually open during the day but carries a very limited selection of snack foods and drinks.
Cascade Locks: Good sized town with several supermarkets. We didn't find a suitable vegan friendly restaurant, but did have a great bbq in the park.
Stevenson, WA: The PCT doesn't actually go through Stevenson, but if you want to make the detour or do the optional road-walk as you enter WA, we liked Stevenson better than Cascade Locks. The downtown had more character, the public library was great, it also had basic supermarkets and we even noticed some vegan items on a couple of the cafe's menus.
White Pass, WA: GSD
Snoqualmie, WA: GSD
Skykomish, WA: Trail Angel
Stehekin, WA: Stehekin has the bakery, a small GSD style store and a diner/cafe. I ended up not eating at the diner because most of their recipes are pre-made and they couldn't tell me the ingredients in anything. The infamous Stehekin bakery is a stop on the bus ride between the trail and town proper. They did not have any vegan bread or sweets when I stopped there, but I was able to put in an order for a fresh loaf sans "egg wash." On the bus ride back up to the trail, I was able to pick it up. Certainly not the pastry other hikers rant about, but it was delicious bread.
Wildharvesting: I don't know a ton about edibles in the NW, but we certainly were able to spruce up our diet a little bit. In Oregon we gorged on berries. Throughout the 3-weeks we were finding fresh Thimbleberries, Blackberries, Blueberries and Huckleberries. In Washington we only found a few Huckleberries, but we hit the jackpot with mushrooms. We found several types of boletes, a couple chantrelle's and tons and tons of basketball sized Hericium/Lion's Mane.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Monday, March 23, 2009
Some Veggie Friendly Stops Along the PCT - Part 1: California
As mentioned in an earlier post, there are two primary strategies for food resupplying on the PCT. 1. Buy everything ahead of time and ship it to yourself along the way, or 2. Buy food along the way at the numerous trailside stores in the same places that one would otherwise send a package to. Due to the fact that the majority of these stores are the equivalent of gas stations, most vegans choose to pre-purchase their food. That is not to say that there are not plenty of vegan oasis' along the way as well as safe choices at your typical gas station store.
A note about gas-station shopping: Although many of us would like to think we only eat organic, whole food, after a month on the trail I was quickly willing to lower my standards for some variety. We always sought out any fresh (or not so fresh) produce, vegetarian canned beans, corn & green beans, bags of nuts (watch out for hydrogenated oils), salsa, pickles, popsicles, box wine (yes it is packaged in plastic), beer, etc. The most unexpected favorite was Fritos (3 ingredients: whole corn, corn oil, salt and rumored to be GMO free). Gas Stations along the PCT tend to be a little better than your average. They often have more canned food, a small veggie section and other basics to supply the locals in between their supply runs to larger towns. Additionally, many of these stores are supply depots for campers and other outdoor recreation enthusiasts. You often find a small supply of camper food, etc.
The following are places that I stopped at or talked to others about. Hopefully my comments will help any veggie hikers trying to plan their resupply schedule. Note, GSD will henceforth be the abbreviation for "Gas Station Dining."
Campo - didn't linger here long, but it seems that GSD is your only option.
Mt. Laguna - GSD
Idyllwild - Although it sits less that two-weeks into the trail, Idyllwild is a welcomed haven. It is small, but still boasts 2 full grocery markets plus an organic grocery buyers co-op. The smaller market, which is only one block from the campground, has a deli with veggie meats (and Tofutti Cream Cheese when we were there). This is also where we first discovered Uncle Eddies cookies, which I believe are the same cookies that Trader Joe's repackages as their own vegan cookies.
The other hot spot in Idyllwild is the buyer's co-op. It is a small store-front downtown, halfway between the two markets. I don't recall their schedule, it has probably changed... essentially they order organic produce from the valley twice per week by pre-order. Inevitably, they always have a few left-overs which they sell at the store to the public. They also have a small produce section including some bulk items, Amy's and Newman's products (and Tofutti Cutie's).
There were also a couple of other small cafe's that served vegetarian and vegan soups. Incidentally, I believe that the guy who runs Nomad Ventures used to be a vegetarian hippie type. He was giving us a hard time about our synthetic bags untill we told hime that we were vegetarian at which point he told us his whole life story (and consequently gave us some nice discounts!)
Big Bear City - We kinda splurged in Big Bear, maybe it was because we missed a spring and went 15 miles without water before reaching Big Bear, or maybe it was because we were so excited to see a vegan menu at a restaurant! Magedeline's, the hobbity looking restaurant on the main drag has a vegan menu if you ask. Although it was a little pricey, the food was on par with the price. They had 3 or so entrees and a couple of appetizers on the vegan menu - this comes at somewhat of a surprise in a world of steaks in hamburgers. There is also a nice little natural food store just as you enter town. We made sure to grab a pint of Soy Delicious Rocky Road as we set back out on the trail.
Wrightwood - I didn't go down to Wrightwood, but my understanding is that it has a decent sized convential grocery store. Reports from other hikers didn't really indicate that it had anything particularly veggie friendly.
Aqua Dulce - The main event in Aqua Dulce is of course the Sauffley's Trail Heaven. In town, just a mile down the road from Casa Sauffley is the grocery store. Mmmm.... full kitchen + full grocery store... good times. Fresh corn on the cob. Nuff said.
Casa de la Luna - We didn't know about these Trail Angels and didn't plan time to stop with them. They are famous for making taco salad and pancakes. As we sadly declined the ride, she assured us that she would have found a way to make vegan taco salad. She said if we were coming again to give her a heads up and she would make 'em really good.
(Dena's parents met us at Tehachapi Pass with delicious Vietnamese sandwiches and Indian food, so our next stop was Kennedy Meadows)
Kennedy Meadows - GSD... in fact, expired GSD. There was one Orange Juice left when we got there and it had gone bad. Our best find was a jar of pickled cauliflour, garlic and green beans. Your best hope is a vegetarian weekender that wants to become an instant trail angel...
(we pushed past Independence and Lone Pine and went the 11 days to VVR)
Vermillion Valley Resort - Basically way over priced GSD. I wish I had good things to say about VVR. The price gouging I could overlook, but it just isn't a very positive place. They sell all of the resellable stuff out of the hiker box. A few hikers reported having things stolen while there, and a couple weeks after we were there someone stole all of the credit card records... shady. The good things are that it is the closest thing to the trail between Kennedy Meadows and Red's Meadow, and that they let you stay there on moldy cots for $10 for the first night. (We squatted in the yard - they do however let you chop wood in exchange for a meal or camping)
Muir Trail Ranch - I met hikers that forked out the fortune for a meal and a night at MTR, though I don't know if they are willing to special order a vegan meal.
Red's Meadow - GSD, but with lots of camping supplies. Also a little restaurant that has a couple veggie items, including grilled cheese, but nothing vegan when we were there. We gorged on tacos of iceberg lettuce, fritos, veggie bean dip and salsa.
Tuolumne Meadows - awe, back in the greater influence of the Bay Area... although small, the Tuolmne store was well stocked with avocados, fresh tomatoes, zucchini, bread and Newman O's. Great for a meal, but I still don't think I would personally choose to resupply from there.
(We were met by my now wife and other friends at Sonora Pass)
Echo Lake - this is a classic Tahoe style resort vibe. Rustic, but well shi shi. Everything you need for a gourmet picnic. 1 ltr. box wine, olive oil preserved eggplant, olives, fancy crackers, etc. They also have a deli with plenty of veggie options. The best of all was when we were there in July they had a huge selection of fresh fruit, most notably black berries! Their smoothies aren't normally vegan, but they were more than willing to customize one for me.
South Lake Tahoe - if you make it into South Lake proper, there are a ton of veggie resources. At the junction there is a small natural food store with a good selection of produce, bulk goods, and vegan cookies. Down 50 toward the Casinos there are a couple veggie friendly restaurants including Sprout (rice bowls, sandwiches, soups), and Freshies, an Island style restaurant with boca burgers and sweet potato fries.
North Lake Tahoe (Truckee & Tahoe City) - N. Lake towns are large and offer your basic selection of grocery stores. Truckee has New Moon Natural Foods and a few veggie friendly cafe's.
Sierra City - GSD, but they have a decent produce section and some tastey old-timey pickles in a big jar on the counter.
Beldon - Beldon "Town" is basically a meth head trailer park that they call a resort. They sell a few things like fishing kits and snickers in their store. It is a long story, but this is the first time we got in a car... for the purpose of getting quickly out of Beldon, on to Quincy - where there is in fact many grocery stores, plus Quincy Natural Foods and Pangeae Cafe and Pub.
Old Station - GSD, but with a nice little picnic area to hang out in before diving into the 30-mile dry stretch of Hat Creek Rim. There is also a pair of Trail Angels that are rumored to be uber-nice (what Trail Angel isn't).
Drakesbad Guest Ranch, Lassen - This is a hot little secret on the trail. Everyday, they serve a huge buffet breakfast, luch and dinner to their guests. People staying there have first priority, so you may choose to stay there. If you don't stay there though, just wait patiently, because after they are satisfied that their guests have made it through the line once or twice, they let PCT hikers dish up all they can eat at the childs price. When we were there everything was vegan except one chicken dish and macaroni and cheese - vegan all you can eat for $5!!! The manager also sat down with us and asked us about our time on the trail and told us we weren't allowed to leave without a soak in the hot springs. Meal hours are very specific. Make sure you know them and show up on time...
Burney Falls - GSD + State Park concessions, yeah french fries...
Castella - GSD, but with a nice little section of produce that they grow on the owners adjacent property. Also, they had a good selection of juice and soy milk (including chocolate soymilk). A 13 mile hitch up the road will get you to the community of Mt. Shasta City whose tiny population boasts two natural food stores and a variety of veggie friendly cafe's.
Etna - We didn't go to Etna, but everyone says that the Brewery is the place to go. Don't know about he food, but I doubt the beer uses isinglass and is probably vegetarian... It is also rumored that David Arora the mushroom guy lives there now and let some hikers stay with him in 2005. This is also your best jumping off point to hitch to Humboldt County for trees, trees and natural food stores.
Seiad Valley - GSD, sorry the pancakes in the famous competition aren't vegan.
=== Oregon & Washington soon to come...
A note about gas-station shopping: Although many of us would like to think we only eat organic, whole food, after a month on the trail I was quickly willing to lower my standards for some variety. We always sought out any fresh (or not so fresh) produce, vegetarian canned beans, corn & green beans, bags of nuts (watch out for hydrogenated oils), salsa, pickles, popsicles, box wine (yes it is packaged in plastic), beer, etc. The most unexpected favorite was Fritos (3 ingredients: whole corn, corn oil, salt and rumored to be GMO free). Gas Stations along the PCT tend to be a little better than your average. They often have more canned food, a small veggie section and other basics to supply the locals in between their supply runs to larger towns. Additionally, many of these stores are supply depots for campers and other outdoor recreation enthusiasts. You often find a small supply of camper food, etc.
The following are places that I stopped at or talked to others about. Hopefully my comments will help any veggie hikers trying to plan their resupply schedule. Note, GSD will henceforth be the abbreviation for "Gas Station Dining."
Campo - didn't linger here long, but it seems that GSD is your only option.
Mt. Laguna - GSD
Idyllwild - Although it sits less that two-weeks into the trail, Idyllwild is a welcomed haven. It is small, but still boasts 2 full grocery markets plus an organic grocery buyers co-op. The smaller market, which is only one block from the campground, has a deli with veggie meats (and Tofutti Cream Cheese when we were there). This is also where we first discovered Uncle Eddies cookies, which I believe are the same cookies that Trader Joe's repackages as their own vegan cookies.
The other hot spot in Idyllwild is the buyer's co-op. It is a small store-front downtown, halfway between the two markets. I don't recall their schedule, it has probably changed... essentially they order organic produce from the valley twice per week by pre-order. Inevitably, they always have a few left-overs which they sell at the store to the public. They also have a small produce section including some bulk items, Amy's and Newman's products (and Tofutti Cutie's).
There were also a couple of other small cafe's that served vegetarian and vegan soups. Incidentally, I believe that the guy who runs Nomad Ventures used to be a vegetarian hippie type. He was giving us a hard time about our synthetic bags untill we told hime that we were vegetarian at which point he told us his whole life story (and consequently gave us some nice discounts!)
Big Bear City - We kinda splurged in Big Bear, maybe it was because we missed a spring and went 15 miles without water before reaching Big Bear, or maybe it was because we were so excited to see a vegan menu at a restaurant! Magedeline's, the hobbity looking restaurant on the main drag has a vegan menu if you ask. Although it was a little pricey, the food was on par with the price. They had 3 or so entrees and a couple of appetizers on the vegan menu - this comes at somewhat of a surprise in a world of steaks in hamburgers. There is also a nice little natural food store just as you enter town. We made sure to grab a pint of Soy Delicious Rocky Road as we set back out on the trail.
Wrightwood - I didn't go down to Wrightwood, but my understanding is that it has a decent sized convential grocery store. Reports from other hikers didn't really indicate that it had anything particularly veggie friendly.
Aqua Dulce - The main event in Aqua Dulce is of course the Sauffley's Trail Heaven. In town, just a mile down the road from Casa Sauffley is the grocery store. Mmmm.... full kitchen + full grocery store... good times. Fresh corn on the cob. Nuff said.
Casa de la Luna - We didn't know about these Trail Angels and didn't plan time to stop with them. They are famous for making taco salad and pancakes. As we sadly declined the ride, she assured us that she would have found a way to make vegan taco salad. She said if we were coming again to give her a heads up and she would make 'em really good.
(Dena's parents met us at Tehachapi Pass with delicious Vietnamese sandwiches and Indian food, so our next stop was Kennedy Meadows)
Kennedy Meadows - GSD... in fact, expired GSD. There was one Orange Juice left when we got there and it had gone bad. Our best find was a jar of pickled cauliflour, garlic and green beans. Your best hope is a vegetarian weekender that wants to become an instant trail angel...
(we pushed past Independence and Lone Pine and went the 11 days to VVR)
Vermillion Valley Resort - Basically way over priced GSD. I wish I had good things to say about VVR. The price gouging I could overlook, but it just isn't a very positive place. They sell all of the resellable stuff out of the hiker box. A few hikers reported having things stolen while there, and a couple weeks after we were there someone stole all of the credit card records... shady. The good things are that it is the closest thing to the trail between Kennedy Meadows and Red's Meadow, and that they let you stay there on moldy cots for $10 for the first night. (We squatted in the yard - they do however let you chop wood in exchange for a meal or camping)
Muir Trail Ranch - I met hikers that forked out the fortune for a meal and a night at MTR, though I don't know if they are willing to special order a vegan meal.
Red's Meadow - GSD, but with lots of camping supplies. Also a little restaurant that has a couple veggie items, including grilled cheese, but nothing vegan when we were there. We gorged on tacos of iceberg lettuce, fritos, veggie bean dip and salsa.
Tuolumne Meadows - awe, back in the greater influence of the Bay Area... although small, the Tuolmne store was well stocked with avocados, fresh tomatoes, zucchini, bread and Newman O's. Great for a meal, but I still don't think I would personally choose to resupply from there.
(We were met by my now wife and other friends at Sonora Pass)
Echo Lake - this is a classic Tahoe style resort vibe. Rustic, but well shi shi. Everything you need for a gourmet picnic. 1 ltr. box wine, olive oil preserved eggplant, olives, fancy crackers, etc. They also have a deli with plenty of veggie options. The best of all was when we were there in July they had a huge selection of fresh fruit, most notably black berries! Their smoothies aren't normally vegan, but they were more than willing to customize one for me.
South Lake Tahoe - if you make it into South Lake proper, there are a ton of veggie resources. At the junction there is a small natural food store with a good selection of produce, bulk goods, and vegan cookies. Down 50 toward the Casinos there are a couple veggie friendly restaurants including Sprout (rice bowls, sandwiches, soups), and Freshies, an Island style restaurant with boca burgers and sweet potato fries.
North Lake Tahoe (Truckee & Tahoe City) - N. Lake towns are large and offer your basic selection of grocery stores. Truckee has New Moon Natural Foods and a few veggie friendly cafe's.
Sierra City - GSD, but they have a decent produce section and some tastey old-timey pickles in a big jar on the counter.
Beldon - Beldon "Town" is basically a meth head trailer park that they call a resort. They sell a few things like fishing kits and snickers in their store. It is a long story, but this is the first time we got in a car... for the purpose of getting quickly out of Beldon, on to Quincy - where there is in fact many grocery stores, plus Quincy Natural Foods and Pangeae Cafe and Pub.
Old Station - GSD, but with a nice little picnic area to hang out in before diving into the 30-mile dry stretch of Hat Creek Rim. There is also a pair of Trail Angels that are rumored to be uber-nice (what Trail Angel isn't).
Drakesbad Guest Ranch, Lassen - This is a hot little secret on the trail. Everyday, they serve a huge buffet breakfast, luch and dinner to their guests. People staying there have first priority, so you may choose to stay there. If you don't stay there though, just wait patiently, because after they are satisfied that their guests have made it through the line once or twice, they let PCT hikers dish up all they can eat at the childs price. When we were there everything was vegan except one chicken dish and macaroni and cheese - vegan all you can eat for $5!!! The manager also sat down with us and asked us about our time on the trail and told us we weren't allowed to leave without a soak in the hot springs. Meal hours are very specific. Make sure you know them and show up on time...
Burney Falls - GSD + State Park concessions, yeah french fries...
Castella - GSD, but with a nice little section of produce that they grow on the owners adjacent property. Also, they had a good selection of juice and soy milk (including chocolate soymilk). A 13 mile hitch up the road will get you to the community of Mt. Shasta City whose tiny population boasts two natural food stores and a variety of veggie friendly cafe's.
Etna - We didn't go to Etna, but everyone says that the Brewery is the place to go. Don't know about he food, but I doubt the beer uses isinglass and is probably vegetarian... It is also rumored that David Arora the mushroom guy lives there now and let some hikers stay with him in 2005. This is also your best jumping off point to hitch to Humboldt County for trees, trees and natural food stores.
Seiad Valley - GSD, sorry the pancakes in the famous competition aren't vegan.
=== Oregon & Washington soon to come...
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